The Ounila Valley, from Telouet to Ait Ben Haddou

The old caravan road

The Ounila is a narrow river that flows down from the High Atlas to Ait Ben Haddou, where it joins the Imini River. Along its course lie many villages, kasbahs, green gardens and remarkably colourful geology, all home to hospitable Amazigh communities. A secondary road, the P1506, links Ait Ben Haddou to the Tizi n Tichka pass. It is longer than the main N9, but the views and hidden landmarks make it worthwhile.

As you drive this small road, picture the camel caravans that once travelled from sub Saharan cities to Marrakech. The Ounila Valley was a vital passage for caravans carrying Saharan goods and salt on journeys that lasted weeks. Its main attractions today are listed below.

• Ait Ben Haddou
• Tamdaght Kasbah
• Kasbah of Anemiter
• Telouet Kasbah

How to visit the valley

You can arrange a day trip with a travel agency that visits Ait Ben Haddou, continues through the Ounila Valley and returns on the N9. You can also explore the valley on your way to or from Marrakech, ideally with a night in one of its charming guest houses. Many agencies also run daily trips from Marrakech to Ait Ben Haddou that include the valley. Note that buses and shared taxis between Marrakech and Ouarzazate take the faster N9, not the P1506. Routes and services can change, so check locally.

Where to stay

Once you cross the High Atlas, standard hotels are hard to find outside the big towns. Instead, many affordable guest houses and kasbahs, each with its own character, welcome travellers. Tourism is an important source of income here, so hosts take great care of their guests, and the High Atlas serves some of the best tagine in Morocco.